Taqueria Mexicana

We all know greasy.

Alas, they know us, too. And we love each other.

But our girths don’t agree. So, fortunately, there are some Mexican restaurants that don’t overwhelm the plate and palate with volumes of cheese and congealed fat.

Taqueria Mexicana is one.

It’s a modest, homey spot run by a family originally from Michocan, Mexico. Sometimes the jukebox belts out Ranchera tunes, sometimes it’s peaceful. A few booths, a few tables, nothing too fancy. But comfy, with good food.

My dining partner, not easily appeased by nondescript food, is a fan. On a recent visit, he chose pollo ala diabla (Devil’s Chicken), chunks of chicken breast simmered in spicy red salsa, priced at $12.50. He approved of the flavors but thought it could have brandished an even more piquant bite.

It wasn’t heavy, though, and had a refreshing tomatoey presence.

My entree was chile verde pork in a green tomatillo sauce, which cost $12.25. A nice, light taste, with a tinge of sweetness. Both dishes come with refried beans, not overly fatty, tortillas and rice.

The menu lists 20 combination plates of traditional fare, such as enchiladas and tacos, chalupas and fajitas, seven chicken dishes and a particularly impressive array of shrimp recipes.

For the adventurous, there’s pozole, a hominy soup, as well as pickled pork skin and deep-fried ice cream.

So, if you find yourself in Toppenish and grease isn’t on your wish list, try a freshly-prepared entree at this cozy place.

– Jane Gargas

Taqueria Mexicana

Location: 1051/2 S. Alder St., Toppenish.

Phone: 509-865-7116.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays.